Sunday, December 30, 2012

Weekend in Paris

Weekend in Paris



Finally, the house is in order, at least functional. The kitchen is stocked with cookware and dinner ware. The fridge is stocked. The bedrooms are furnished. We are no longer living out of suitcases with appliance boxes substituting for tables. And we have a car. We still need living room furniture, but that's next month. For now we can relax and enjoy a weekend off. Where else to go, but Paris. No searching for the necessities, just having fun, with no other mission.

I took this snapshot from my GPS on the Intercites train to Paris showing 100 mph.

We drove to the train station, 15 minutes, and took the train to Paris, 2 hours. Buying a train ticket is easy, just tell the man in the booth where you want to go. Two one way tickets are the same cost as one round trip ticket, so I prefer to buy only the one way ticket. Then I have the option of when we return. If we sleep in we can take a late train, if we want to stay an extra day, it's no big deal. If you are traveling after hours and the booth is closed, you can use the kiosk, which has an English option to purchase tickets. Its quick and easy. The train runs from 5:00 in the morning until 10:00 at night, with departure times approximately every four hours, depending on the day of the week.
Dramamine is a good idea. Alice gets motion sick occasionally and the train to Paris is not the smoothest. It sways side to side and bumps around. Its not as comfy as the TGV. There are public restrooms on the train, but like public restrooms anywhere, they are not always the neatest nor smell the freshest.



Hotel de Ville with ice skating rink in front.


Of course the first thing to see in Paris in December are the lights and the window displays. The Hotel de Ville, (the City Hall) had ice skating out front and brilliant strobes decorated the roof. A large tree of lights and a snowman celebrated the season near the main entrance.

Tree of lights and snowman in front of Hotel de Ville.
A lot of people were climbing onto the railing or putting their kids up on the railing for pictures. We passed.

The Eiffel Tower is always a must see. We wandered about the Trocadero among crowds of sight seers, waiting for the lights to sparkle up and down the tower. On the hour they turn on the twinkling strobes for a wonderful show.


Galleries Layfayette had its windows decorated for the season. Along one street, the windows were decorated with a Louis Vuitton theme of animals and marionettes.The crowds were atrocious. The sidewalks were packed with people and strollers. It was difficult to get close enough to take pictures without knocking over a few children and old ladies. I led the way since Alice feels sorry for the old ladies.



The bear and all the marionettes were animated.

Drum music played as the marionettes struck their drums.

Even the dog bobbed his head in time to the music.

The Pom-Poms shook as the marionettes danced.
The other side of the store featured storybook themes. Curiously, it was not as crowded as the marionette side.


Cinderella


Rapunzel

Snow White
A full day of walking around Paris, climbing up and down the stairs of the Metro, will give you two things: sore feet and a big appetite. At one in the morning it is hard to find a restaurant in the off season, even in Paris. So of course we headed for the Hippopotamus. Where you can count on continuous service and large portions for hungry tourists.







Monday, December 24, 2012

Christmas Lights

Christmas Lights



When in Bagnoles, one does not go out for a drive to look at the neighborhood Christmas lights. So far we have seen no private houses decorated with outside lights. A few have a Santa in the yard or climbing up to the roof (I guess Santa does not have a permit for flying reindeer in France). The best way to see Christmas lights is to drive to each little town and see the town's lights. We drove to the nearby town of La Sauvagere to check out their lights. We got there at 5:00 and walked around until the lights came on at 5:30, by which time it was dark.

Santa's Workshop.

High Boy bicycle.

The town Square


 There was music coming from a store in the town square playing Christmas music for all to hear. It took us a moment to realize that all the Christmas songs were in English. All evening they played American Christmas songs.


Since it was Sunday night, the square was very busy. People coming to church and others bringing their children to the square to see the decorations. A man was selling hot sausages on the corner. He stood over his open flame grill and did a wonderful business in the cold winter air.





Many of the towns decorate the roundabout that is usually at the entry to the town. Messei had the best roundabout.

MERRY CHRISTMAS



Sunday, December 23, 2012

Beer

Beer

The grocery store is a whole new experience in France. Mr. Clean is Mr. Propre and if you want a glass cleaner it's not Windex, but Ajax. Most of the familiar brands are missing and the translation of products is not always exact.



All the grocery stores are stocked with wine of course and they also stock many brands of whiskey, gin, vodka and other liquors. I was surprised by the assortment of beer. Not by the many different brands and types, but the alcohol content. You can pick out a beer based on alcohol content alone.


Maybe you've had a hard day and the old Heineken is just not cutting it with only 5% alcohol. You could pop a top on a Brauperle 8-0, with 8% alcohol.


Or maybe a 8.4% brew would give you just that little extra kick.

Or maybe you're really in a hurry to get that end of the day buzz and be the life of the party with no worries and no inhibitions. With an Amsterdam 11.6% brew you can be dancing on tables wearing a lamp shade in record time.






Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Buying a car in France



Buying a car in France

BMW Touring body style, 5 door.


Today we bought a used car at the BMW dealer. We had gone to him because he was referred to us by the realtor, Laure, that had been so helpful. He was very nice and very professional. He spoke broken English, which was a plus also.
I was not sure about the procedures involved with an American buying a car in France, without a French driver’s license or insurance. We had cancelled our policy in the U.S. when we sold our car.
We looked at the vehicles he had on the lot and none of them met our needs. We wanted a newer car with automatic transmission, since Alice does not drive a stick. We did not want to pay more than 15,000. The salesman, Toni, told us that finding a car with automatic transmission would be difficult. We tried out the little 118 Touring BMW and I did not think it would do for long drives. We need a 3 series.

Toni was great, he found a car within two days and called us.
“Hello, this is Toni. How are you?”
“Hello, Toni. I am good, and you?”
“Yes, good. I have found a car for you. It is automatique. It is very good car. It is 320 diesel. I think you will like it. It is 320 Touring like the one at the dealership, but with a bigger engine.”
“Sounds good, Toni. What else can you tell me about the car?”
“It is very good. It is fifty thousand nine ninety. It is two thousand, uh zero nine, sorry, zero eight model. It is light blue. I can have it here in four maybe five days. What do you think?”
“The cost is fifteen thousand?”
“Yes, sorry fifteen thousand nine and nine.”
“When can we see the car?”
“Good, I will book the car and I will call you when it is here.”
“Thank you, Toni. I look forward to hearing from you.” I hung up the phone a little uncertain. In my mind the car Toni had just described was an ugly baby blue, station wagon, diesel, BMW that was overpriced by at least two thousand euros.
“Honey, that was Toni and I either just bought a 2008 BMW or he has one coming in for us to look at.”

Thursday Toni called to confirm that the car was in and ready for us to look at it. We made an appointment to see it on Friday at 15:00.
Well, the car was beautiful. It looked like new. BMW medium grey with black interior. It was built in December 2008 so it had the 2009 body style and headlights. It was the coupe not the “station wagon” Touring model. We loved it. We took it out for a spin and then went back to Toni’s office where we met the dealership owner. The conversation quickly turned to my cowboy boots, they loved them, and my science fiction novels. Francois, the owner spoke very good English and enjoyed sci-fi, so I promised to send him a copy of my first novel.
The price was 16,435.50 euros. The car would be ready to pick up on Monday. They were going to put new tires and brake pads on it. I offered to write a check for it that day, but Toni said, “No, you write a check when you get the car.”
It was a simple transaction on Monday.  The insurance agent had called Toni for the car details. I signed two papers to finalize the transaction, got a temporary grey card to allow me to drive the car in France. Toni handed me the keys, showed me the car’s features and I drove off the lot with a big smile. 



Final Note: We have what is considered a large garage over here. It is a car and a half wide, plenty of room for a motorcycle and a work bench. But our BMW sticks out about  18 inches. I can’t close the garage door with the car parked inside! C'est la vie

Almost




Furniture Shopping



Furniture Shopping

Cute table, maybe...


Somehow, Alice and I pictured beautiful hand crafted elegant furniture in our new home in France. Maybe, we were overly influenced by our visits to the chateaux in Fontainebleau or Napoleon’s Apartment at the Louvre. We had never actually been in anyone’s private residence in France. We had never actually shopped for furniture in France either. We had a lot to learn.
France is not lacking in furniture stores, or Les Meubles. There are signs everywhere along the main roads. But when we stopped to browse, we got an education in French taste. 


Too Fancy


Too Plain
Too Modern

Nice, but too square. Not our theme.


Wow, too young.

Most of the furniture we saw in the stores was very modern. Either glass and chrome or simple butt joints of straight legs and rectangular bodies, pervade every showroom. The furniture that was not composed of straight lines was wild and colorful, fit mostly for dorms or college apartments.
We took a weekend trip to Paris to check out the Flea Market. It was rumored to have mountains of antique and vintage furniture. So on a rainy afternoon we struck off walking from the very last stop on the Paris Metro and into a different world. It was a tent camp of cheap purses, sweaters, jeans and faux leather jackets. The cars were old clunkers that rattled and coughed down the crowded streets. No Porsches or Ferraris here. Alice stayed close and held my hand tightly.

View of one of the flea market buildings.

Lingerie Ancienne? No way, ancient lingerie? Do I want to know?

Then we turned onto a side street that promised several “Markets.” It was totally cool. We went into a two story building that housed several different shops. Statues of stone and bronze graced the entry to one shop. A life size horse reared on one side and a Roman Centurion stood at attention on the other. Statues of every size were displayed. The next shop featured ornately carved furniture from India and they spilled out of the second floor shop and down the stairway. Rugs, lamps, nautical paraphernalia and old stereo equipment were featured in their own little shops. Most of the shops were closed for the season, but many were open with bored proprietors sitting around or chatting on their phones. Then we got into the furniture shops. They had beautifully lavish furniture that looked like it had just left the museum. Mahogany and gold graced many shop widows. It was beautiful, but would look more at home in a chateaux than our modest abode. Each piece had been lovingly restored and displayed a numbered tag, no prices were posted. This was not yard sale country. These vendors knew their stuff. They were undoubtedly experts in fine antiques. 

Typical window shopping in the Paris flea market.


It was a great experience and we cannot wait to go back in the Spring when more shops are open, but we left without a stick to bring home. We would have to continue our furniture shopping elsewhere. 

Alice and Tony Parker in Paris. That's Tony on the Quick Burger poster. Go Spurs.

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Built in 1767

Built in 1767


builders initials and date of construction

 When you live in a house built before indoor plumbing or electricity you discover certain additions that have been made before building codes were invented. Such as electrical outlets that appear to have been added on an, as needed, basis. The electrical outlets in Alice's study are on one wall only and at knee height.
outlet at knee height

The front wall in our bedroom has two electrical outlets, one in each corner, over twenty feet away from each other and right against the floor.
front wall of our bedroom
single electrical outlet in corner of bedroom
electrical outlet in kitchen, very neat

electrical outlet in kitchen with duplex adapter, not so neat

The electrical outlets are for a single plug only. This can of course be remedied with an additional duplex adapter available at any grocery store. They must be very popular.

light switch in loft hiding behind wooden beam
The light switches are varied in type and location. It's kind of a game trying to find the light switch for a certain area.

ground floor laundry/bathroom
The downstairs laundry/water closet is tucked into a very small space as well. Of course you can watch the clothes tumble as you do your business, very entertaining. Oh, and there is a small window that opens from the outside, not sure about the thinking on that one.

window to outside, looking out onto driveway/garage



Getting Internet Service






Getting Internet Service
France Telecom, otherwise known as Orange, is the big gorilla of Communication providers here. Of course there is not an office here in our little town. I did my online research and learned that the new company, SFR, has a better deal on internet and cell phone bundles.When you’re number two, you try harder.  However, when I went to the SFR store in the nearby town, I was told that I would have to go through Orange, because SFR did not serve my area yet. No big deal, the Orange store was just down the block, a short walk away.
Once in the Orange store we took a seat and waited for our turn. It was crowded and the wait was about 45 minutes. Our name was called or at least the French version, and we went with the kind lady to her work station.
“Do you speak English?” I enquired?
“Non.”
“Is there someone here that does?”
“Non.” She then talked to several of the other employees nearby and after receiving only head shakes, she replied, “Sorry.”
I then gestured and stumbled through a few common words, “telephone, internet, iPhone” and we came to the understanding that Alice and I had moved to Bagnoles (which everyone in the different towns around here pronounce differently, which does not help in our communication).
“Non, must bank France.” She said politely, but I was ready and pulled out my French bankcard.
“Oh, oui! Maison? Address en France?”
“Oui,” I replied and opened my iPad to show her our France address which is longer than hell’s seven levels  (13 Ter Rue de la Sergenterie de Javains-and that’s just the street).
Then the doubtful look passed over her face and she rattled off a lot of questions and seeing my blank expression, finally gestured with her hands out.
“Long? How long? How long are we going to be there? How long do we want the contract to be? Oh, we would like a one year contract, please.” The last part I said in butchered French and with a single up raised finger.
She smiled and we got down to business picking out a phone and a plan. She of course tried to explain each of the different options. Speaking very slowly, but slow French was as useless to us as fast French. It just took longer.
We had the phone picked out and the phone cover, when she looked down at her watch and tried to explain to us that the store was now closed for lunch. It was actually a little past noon, so she was working into her lunch time. We should come back at 2:00 pm (14:00) and we could finish then. We were walked to the door, Big smiles, Au revoir. We now had two hours for lunch.
Two hot salads, four glasses of wine, one chocolate mousse, a cappuccino and an espresso found us back at Orange at 14:00 on the dot, where we were met by the same kind lady. We reviewed what we had accomplished and moved on to a maze of bundled plans listed in company brochure where she could point and explain all the virtues of each. Halfway through I got a little antsy and decided the hell with it. I pointed to the very last plan. The “Open Premium Extra Special Get It All” plan with TV, internet, cell phone, house phone and a little guy that comes out to your house and wipes your butt for you on Sundays. Well that may be an exaggeration, but it was the top plan with everything and what had caught my eye was the little line that looked like international calling was free.
“That’s for us. Je vousdrais Open Plan, S’il vous plait.”
The lady was quite pleased and went on to explain all the benefits. Alice asked about the international calling and the lady was happy to explain the international calling. Alice asked if it was unlimited and the lady repeated what she had said before. Alice asked if she could call mobile phones in the U.S. and the lady repeated what she had said before only very slowly., syllable by syllable. Alice looked at me and I shrugged, “I think so.”
We signed papers, turned over banking information, (almost all the utilities and phone services demand automatic bank withdrawl), passport information, driver’s license information and checked out at the front cash register. Then we were taken to the counter where we picked up our equipment, LiveBox for internet, Decoder TV box, several pages of instructions (in French), papers listing our access codes, passwords, phone numbers, email accounts with Orange, and TV code. The gentleman took our iPhone, activated it, set it up and handed it back with a piece of paper that had our unlock code written on it. He explained/wrote that we could expect internet service within 15 days. After two hours in the Orange store and a two hour lunch, we went home with smiles on our faces.
Fifteen days later we still had no internet service. I called and they set up an appointment for a technician to come to the house on the following Monday. He arrived, spoke no English, and looked the system over. He called his boss. He then tried to explain the problem. We called a friend to translate over the phone and apparently there was a problem with the phone line. The technician had set up an appointment on the following Tuesday to have another technician look at the line and repair it. He shrugged, gathered up his stuff and left. I talked to my friend on the phone and she said, “Yes, that’s the way it goes. Sorry.”
Three weeks later, we do have internet service, Hooray!
The plan includes internet, cable TV, and unlimited cell phone usage. The cost is 95€ per month, about $124, very reasonable. We do get unlimited free calling to the U.S. on land lines only with our cell phone, and unlimited calling to landlines and mobile phones in the U.S. through VOIP, which I have not tried yet. A friend of ours here said she gets cable TV, house phone, internet and unlimited minutes of cell phone for 60€ per month.That's less than we paid for cable TV in the States.